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CHAPITRE DES TROIS GLORIEUSES SATURDAY NOVEMBER 14 2009
The Vougeot du Coeur*.
An inimitable mixture of sumptuousness and conviviality, each Chapitre epitomises the spirit of Burgundy and its wines.
A vibrant tribute to Burgundy’s wines, its gastronomy, and the men who made the region what it is, each Chapitre is above all an occasion where tradition counts.
An evening where sumptuousness vies with friendly conviviality, where guests are honoured by being invited to share in the best of everything the region has to offer.
First and foremost on Saturday’s menu were some outstanding wines: the Tasteviné 2006 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Abbaye de Morgeot”; the 2004 Beaune Premier Cru “Dames Hospitalières” from the Hospice’s domaine; and, to finish, the Tasteviné 2000 Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, which delighted diners with its silky richness, its fullness, robust character and subtlety – the guest’s palates were regaled with a taste of the region’s splendour!
But the reputation of the Chapitres rests as much on their festive atmosphere as their fare, and Saturday’s was no exception to the rule, with the Cadets de Bourgogne enlivening the courses with traditional songs and others by famous composers, including an inspired a cappella rendition of Rameau’s Nuit.
What an evening!
After a truly cosmopolitan constellation of VIP guests had been introduced, it was time for the enthronements. Making no attempt to disguise his enthusiasm, Patrick Bruel, accompanied by Andrea Casiraghi, swore the oath and downed the divine nectar from the silver goblet. Véronique Colucci, widow of the comedian Coluche, was also enthroned. Taking it all in good humour, the actor and singer began his speech with an announcement of some good news: “France is one up against Ireland, thanks to a goal by Nicolas Anelka!”
Sumptuousness and conviviality!
Wines of the evening :
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU ABBAYE DE MORGEOT 2006 TASTEVINÉ
The name Chassagne comes from the Latin Cassanos, is a reminder that oak trees once grew in abundance in this area. In the nineteenth century, most wine-producing communes in the Côte-d'Or linked their villages' names with that of their most famous vineyard, which in the case of Chassagne was Montrachet. Located in the south part of the Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet is one of the five villages of the prestigious “Côte des Blancs”. The appellation represents 187 hectares of chardonnay white wine and 114 hectares of pinot noir red wine with 19 premiers crus and 3 grands crus. The vines spread over the villages of Chassagne-Montrachet (Côte-d’Or) and Remigny (Sâone-et-Loire). Facing east/south-east, white premier cru soils are mainly made of brown clay and limestone. Chassagne-Montrachet produces 70 hectares of premiers crus. «Abbaye de Morgeot» is one of the 1er crus of the village, bordering premier cru "Morgeot". It is situated in the south of the commune, around an old "Abbaye". The soil is quite deep, with marl and limestone. The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2006 is a very well balanced wine, full bodied, powerful and rich. It develops aromas of white flowers and fruits flesh as well as honey and vanilla. It goes perfectly well for special and delicate food.
THIS WINE WAS AWARDED THE COVETED DISTINCTION OF THE TASTEVINAGE BY THE CONFRÉRIE JURY IN 2009.
SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE 2002 TASTEVINÉ
The vineyards of Savigny are reputed to be amongst the oldest in the Côte-d'Or. The Roman road joining Langres, Autun and Besançon ran through them. In the course of history the Bishop of Autun, the Abbeys of Cîteaux and Maizières, the Dukes of Burgundy and other grand nobles have all possessed vines there. In the seventeenth and nineteenth century, a number of engraved transcriptions appeared in the village including the following one : "Savigny wines are nutritious, theological and keep death away." The Savigny-les-Beaune appellation is located on the eponym village close to the north of Beaune. It represents 348 hectares and declines mainly in red pinot noir wine, and, white chardonnay wine. The vines, facing south, are planted on stony chalk soil at heights ranging between 220 and 400 metres. The red Savigny-les-Beaune possesses a colour of medium intensity. It has an elegant structure, characterised above all by a dominant aroma of soft red fruit which, after several years in the bottle, goes on to develop nuances of forest humus and leather. This 2002 Savigny-les-Beaune is pleasant, mellow and discreetly tannic and goes along well with poached eggs.
THIS WINE WAS AWARDED THE COVETED DISTINCTION OF THE TASTEVINAGE BY THE CONFRÉRIE JURY IN 2004.
BEAUNE 1ER CRU DAMES HOSPITALIÈRES 2004
HOSPICES DE BEAUNE
By long standing tradition, the Hospices de Beaune sale opens with the auction of this outstanding cuvée. The Dames Hospitalières were nuns who devoted their lives to the care of the sick in the Hospice following its foundation in 1432; some bequeathed substantial legacies to the institution. Originally from Saint-Omer in northern France, the sisters were trained at the Hospice in Valenciennes on the present-day border between France and Belgium. The grapes used, to produce the Cuvée des Dames Hospitalières, come exclusively from two premier cru vineyards : Les Bressandes and La Mignotte. Most of the vines were planted before 1960 and are distributed over the best parcels. The sun-drenched vineyard's brown, calcareous, predominantly sandy soil produces rich, fleshy, full-bodied wines. Supple in the mouth, the Cuvée des Dames Hospitalières 2004 has acquired over time an attractive truffle, leather and spice aromas, heightened with a hint of pepper in perfect harmony with game of our forests.
IN 2004, THE CONFRÉRIE DES CHEVALIERS DU TASTEVIN ACQUIRED TWO CASKS OF THIS WINE DURING THE AUCTIONS HELD AT THE HOSPICES DE BEAUNE.
GRANDS ECHEZEAUX GRAND CRU 2000 TASTEVINÉ
Echezeaux is a corruption of Cheseaux derived from the Latin “Casalis” - from “Casa”, house – which suggests that the plot had been built upon in the Gallo-Roman period. Cultivated from the thirteenth century by Cistercian monks, the Echezeaux vines were divided then into Echezeaux Haut and Echezeaux Bas (Higher and Lower Echezeaux respectively), today Grands Echezeaux. The soil is made of clay-stone along the south-west section of the surrounding wall at 250 metres of altitude. Grands Echezeaux is situated above the Clos de Vougeot ; This area is practically at flat level, and represents a sort of continuation of the Clos de Vougeot. Grands Echezeaux grand cru 2000 is characterised by its silky abundance combining fullness, robustness and finesse. As the wine ages, it excels itself in richness and generosity, developing a magnificently full body. It goes particularly well with mature cheeses.
THIS WINE WAS AWARDED THE COVETED DISTINCTION OF THE TASTEVINAGE BY THE CONFRÉRIE JURY IN 2003.
CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE BRUT ROSÉ
Sparkling wines have been produced in Burgundy since the beginning of the 19th century. Alfred de Musset already mentions them in “Secrètes Pensées de Raphaël”. The crémant de Bourgogne appellation was created in 1975; it can be made using several varieties of grape : pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot gris, also gamay à jus blanc, aligoté, melon and sacy. You may have come across white Crémant de Bourgogne as an apéritif, on its own or with a little red fruits liqueur. The Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé is suitable for every occasion and goes particularly well with desserts.
The evening’s entertainment was brought to a close with an event as providential as it was unexpected: as a modest foretaste of the generosity that would be shown the day after at the Hospices de Beaune, four jeroboams were auctioned, raising 20,000 euros for the Restos du Coeur.
BENJAMIN HUTTER
Le Bien Public Les Dépêches
* allusion to the celebrated « Restos du Cœur », charity founded by the comedian and actor Coluche.
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| RESULTS OF THE TASTEVINAGE D'AUTOMNE 2010 |
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Last Friday, more than 260 members of the jury took part in a tasting of 678 Burgundy wines; only 230 will be able to bear the Tastevinage label created 60 years ago.
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