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CHAPITRE DU GOUT ET DE LA GASTRONOMIE SATURDAY NOVEMBRE 7 2009
An evening of typically autumnal weather, with everyone crammed together inside the comforting shelter of the Cistercian cellar walls. The Chapitre was chaired on this occasion by His Excellency Mr Yasuo SAITO, Japanese ambassador to France. The Dijon-based Michelin-starred chef, Stéphane Derbord, assisted by the Clos de Vougeot’s own brigade of cooks and scullions, conjured up a paleron de veau fondant served with Savoy cabbage and Burgundy truffles.
As a trainee diplomat with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Mr Saito spent two years in Dijon between 1972 and 1973. In that time, he perfected his knowledge of Burgundy and its culture; in other words, he is no stranger to our region – so the evening was something of a homecoming.
Mr Saito was introduced in the following terms: “He spent two years in Dijon and later – thirty-five years later to be precise – became Japan’s ambassador to France. He returned to Paris in 2000 as his country’s UNESCO representative (we had the pleasure of receiving the new Director General of UNESCO, Mme Irina Bokova, at our last Chapitre), and he was Japan’s Ambassador to Saudi Arabia and then Russia before taking up his current post in France, a country he knows well. There is so much more I could tell you about him, but tonight he is here to present his diplomatic credentials to the wines of Burgundy. It is my privilege to welcome the Japanese Ambassador to France, His Excellency Mr Yasuo SAITO and his wife Chiéko.”
Anne-Isabelle Roubaï had designed a stunningly attractive menu-cover for the occasion. Also present was Dijon photographer Philippe Maupetit who has produced a magnificent booklet of images of Greece, guest nation at the 79th Foire Gastronomique et Internationale being held in Dijon.
Wines of the evening :
BOUZERON 2007 TASTEVINÉ
Just a mile or so south-east of Chagny, Bouzeron is the first village of the Côte Chalonnaise. It made a name for itself on the 17th February 1998 by becoming the only wine producing commune in France to receive appellation status for an aligoté based wine ; it is an old variety planted since very early times and accounts for 6% of the total production in Burgundy. It is a vigorous plant, its fruits are slightly bigger and more numerous than those of the chardonnay. The vines of 47 hectares lie in the villages of Bouzeron and Chassey-le-Camp from 270 to 350 metres high. The upper portion consists of white marls derived from Oxfordian limestone and brown marly soils limestone from Bath period. The soil is generally thin and the slopes steep, exposed east and south-east. The Bouzeron is a white wine exclusively, of pale gold colour with green hints; the nose evokes lemon, acacia, white flowers and sometimes honey and warm croissant. The well-structured Bouzeron 2007 is high-spirited, fresh, mineral (silex, gun flint) and perfect to enjoy and start an excellent dinner.
THIS WINE WAS AWARDED THE COVETED DISTINCTION OF THE TASTEVINAGE BY THE CONFRERIE IN 2008.
CHABLIS VAUDÉSIR GRAND CRU 2006 TASTEVINÉ
This grand cru appellation of 103 hectares lies on the commune of Chablis (including the villages of Fyé and Poinchy) and on the right bank of the river Serein in the Yonne district, north of Burgundy. Chablis Grand Cru is a single entity divided between seven vine plots or “climats” : Bougros, Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos and Blanchot; the vineyards are located in Chablis to the north-east of the town and face the sun at altitudes of 100-250 metres. Vines grow on marl and Kimmeridgian limestone containing tiny fossilised oysters (exogyra virgula), laid down during the Upper Jurassic, some 150 million years ago. The marine origin gives strong iodine and mineral flavors to Chablis wines and is favourable to chardonnay grape. The relief of this Chablis Grand Cru vineyard has round shape and steep slope evoke an ancient amphitheater. There are two major exposures: one is due south in the northern section and the other south west in the southern section. Vaudésir is close to the climates of Preuses, Grenouilles and Valmur ; the name comes the French "Chemin des Vaudésirs" (path of the Vaudésirs) cutting the vineyard down the middle. Vinified exclusively in white, this Chardonnay Grand Cru Vaudésir has a pure and limpid colour, with a faint greenish hint. On the nose, fresh aromas of flower and citrus and, at times, spicy notes of coriander. On the palate harmonious aromas bringing character and elegance. The magnitude of its Grand Cru origin and the light salty notes from the Kimmeridgian soil are in evidence. Remarkably long and complex persistence in the aftertaste". This Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru 2006 is to be served with noble and delicate fish.
THIS WINE WAS AWARDED THE COVETED DISTINCTION OF THE TASTEVINAGE BY THE CONFRERIE IN 2009.
MONTHELIE 2003 TASTEVINÉ
Located between Volnay and Auxey-Duresses, the vineyards of Monthelie form a high semi-circle are overlooking Meursault. The village is dedicated exclusively to wine production.
The name of the village may be a corruption of Mont du Soleil (from the Latin and the Greek Mons-Helios), or it could be from the Celtic Mont-Oloye meaning hill on the road. The vines face south/south-east and east/west between altitudes of 230 and 370 metres. They grow on pebbly Bathonian limestone covered by red clay and marl. This appellation of 119 hectares is producted in both coulor : white (chardonnay) and mainly in red (pinot noir). The 2003 Monthelie red wine is strongly concentrated, has a good robe and a developing aroma of fully ripe black and red berries. Its soft and subtle tannins are evidence of its exceptional structure. THIS WINE WAS AWARDED THE COVETED DISTINCTION OF THE TASTEVINAGE BY THE JURY OF THE CONFRÉRIE IN 2005.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU LES SAINT-GEORGES 1998 - HOSPICES DE NUITS - LES SIRES DE VERY – CUVÉE GEORGES FAIVELEY
This appellation of 306 hectares includes 41 Premiers Crus and is situated on the communes of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Premeaux-Prissey. From 245 to 260 metres of altitude, the vineyards mostly face east or south-east. In 1892, the village of Nuits added the name of its most celebrated wine, Les Saint-Georges, to its own, creating Nuits-Saint-Georges. Les Saints-Georges is one of Burgundy’s most venerable walled vineyards, having been planted with vines since the year 1000. It almost certainly owes its name to the existence of a Christian brotherhood in the locality. In 1023 it was donated to the newly-established religious chapter of Saint-Denis by the chapter’s founder and lord of the manor which included Nuits, Humbert de Vergy. If this named vineyard does not enjoy Grand Cru status, it is only because one of its owners, a Nuits-Saint-Georges wine grower of some eminence and influence at the time the AOC system was being introduced, did not want to be seen to be profiting from his position – a consideration that did not prevent the crew of Apollo XV naming one of the moon’s craters Saint-Georges in the wine’s honour in 1971 ! Situated at the southernmost edge of Nuits-Saint-Georges, the eight hectares that make up Les Saint-Georges produce a rich, firmly structured, complex wine, which successfully harmonises powerfulness and elegance. Over time, its aromas develop a spicy perfume with animal nuances. This Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru Les Saint-Georges 1998 goes particularly well with all cooked meats.
THIS WINE WAS ACQUIRED BY THE CONFRÉRIE DES CHEVALIERS DU TASTEVIN DURING THE HOSPICES DE NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES’ WINE AUCTION HELD AT THE CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DE VOUGEOT.
CORTON CLOS DU ROY GRAND CRU 2001 TASTEVINÉ
Corton represents 95 hectares and stretches over the villages of Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix-Serrigny and Pernand-Vergelesses. The vineyards, oriented south-east/south-west, rise from 250 to 330 metres forming a picturesque hill known as “Montagne de Corton”. The hill is composed of Oxfordian Jurassic limestone. At mid-slope, the soil is reddish and pebbly with brown limestone and rich in marl and potassium. This extensive Grand Cru area is made up of a large number of different “climats” (vine plots), giving wines variety in character. Corton is the unique red Grand Cru grown on the Côte de Beaune (pinot noir). The soil has a remarkable ability to produce firmly structured wines, which, if somewhat forbidding when young, have an excellent cellarage potential, with their combination of powerfulness and finesse. The name Clos du Roy has its origins in the French crown's seizure of the Duke of Burgundy's lands following the death of Charles the Bold in 1477. Clos du Roy enjoys the reputation of being the most authentically corton-esque of all the Cortons. Situated on the middle part of the slope bounded on the north by Les Renardes and on the south by Les Perrières, the vineyard extends over a predominantly chalky soil. The 2001 Corton Clos du Roy Grand Cru is fleshy, ample, racy and full-bodied, with a bouquet of delicately refined aromas. It is ideal for serving with softer cheeses.
THIS WINE WAS AWARDED THE COVETED DISTINCTION OF THE TASTVINAGE BY THE JURY OF THE CONFRÉRIE IN 2009.
CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE BRUT ROSÉ
Sparkling wines have been produced in Burgundy since the beginning of the 19th century. Alfred de Musset already mentions them in “Secrètes Pensées de Raphaël”. The crémant de Bourgogne appellation was created in 1975; it can be made using several varieties of grape : pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot gris, also gamay à jus blanc, aligoté, melon and sacy. You may have come across white Crémant de Bourgogne as an apéritif, on its own or with a little red fruits liqueur. The Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé is suitable for every occasion and goes particularly well with desserts.
Made in front of a warm and enthusiastic assembly, the Ambassador’s claim to be “75% Burgundian and 25% Japanese” brought - the grand cellier of the Château – down.
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| RESULTS OF THE TASTEVINAGE D'AUTOMNE 2010 |
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Last Friday, more than 260 members of the jury took part in a tasting of 678 Burgundy wines; only 230 will be able to bear the Tastevinage label created 60 years ago.
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